Questions and answers from the ‘Car Doctor’

Q. I am a pretty serious DIY mechanic who is thinking of moving to auto repair as a full-time job. I have seen you mention Harbor Freight tools in your column. When I am in a shop/dealership I see Snap-On and other big toolboxes and wonder how Harbor Freight hand tools and boxes stack up.

A. Snap-On tools are great, but unfortunately some entry technicians get financially over extended and end up paying $100 a week or more to the tool truck for the rest of their lives. Expensive tools do not make a good technician, and do not buy tools to show off, buy tools to do the job. You can buy different levels of professionals tool boxes, hand tools at Harbor Freight that can give you years of service. Also look for used tools. On of my co-worker’s dad shut down his shop and was selling his tools, boxes and more. I would have guessed about $10,000 worth of tools. He sold them for $2500. This was a great deal for both the experienced technician and someone getting into the business. There is a YouTuber, the Humble Mechanic and he put out a video about putting together a good starter tool set for $2500. It is worth watching. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1sJsCKAJew

Q. I went in for a routine oil and rotation, the mechanic at my dealer suggested a fuel injector cleaning for $200. I own a 2019 Forester with 25,500 miles. He said they normally do it at 40,000 miles but figured I do short drives, might be wise. I typically drive one or two days per week and usually short and quick stops with maybe one long drive per week. Would you say wait? How could one know if this service is truly needed (gas mileage has not changed nor has how the car drives). And would you do it at a dealer or independent shop?

A. Fuel injector cleaning cannot hurt but may not be necessary. Although the dealer may recommend it, I have never seen Subaru corporate recommend it as a preventative measure. You are better off using quality fuel (www.toptiergas.com) and if you are still concerned add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner once or twice per year.

Q. My car handles worse and bounces more after I had installed new struts. What could be wrong?

A. Since it is worse now, I would want to recheck the work, you could have a defective strut. Also, the wheel alignment may not have been corrected after the repair. New struts should have given you a more controlled ride, with less bounce. When performing the repair hopefully the shop checked the top bearing and springs to make sure they were in good shape before installing the new struts. Many shops also use complete strut assemblies that include the springs and bearings which make for a complete repair. If this was the case, it is even possible the struts were not the proper part for your car.

Q. So, if you had a choice would you buy a Honda Civic R, Subaru WRX, Volkswagen Golf R or Hyundai Elantra N? I am looking for something small, quick, and stylish.

A. I have not driven a Volkswagen product in years, based on past experiences the Golf R was the most mature choice of these cars. The Civic R which I just evaluated, handled great, the engine was fun to run up to the “redline” the brakes were as good as the engine. The Subaru WRX, like the Golf R, has the advantage of all-wheel drive. The Hyundai Elantra N is down on power compared to some of the competitors but still performs quite well. They are all great cars, for me, the Civic R as good as it was geared to a younger driver. I feel I am too old to drive a car with a big spoiler on the rear deck. So, If I had to pick based on cars, I have evaluated the Elantra N would be my choice.

Q. Several weeks ago, my 17-year-old son, using his own money purchased a car for $4500. The car, an Audi A 4 seemed to be a good deal, but he then returned to the same seller, because it had a bad vibration. The second car, this time a BMW, turned out to have a fraudulent title as well as an odometer that had been turned back. We discovered this through a Carfax report. I was informed by both my son and his best friend that they attempted to get even some of their money back and return the car, but the seller refused. Now the seller will not even take his calls. Do you have any suggestions as to how we might proceed to rectify this issue/problem?

A. The first thing that needs to be determined is if the seller was a legitimate car dealer or someone who just buys and sells cars without a license. The seller may be someone who just “jumps” titles selling a car they purchased without re-titling it in their name. Depending on where you live, state agencies rarely get involved in private party sales. If they are a legitimate car dealer you may be able to get some help through a dealer organization or the Attorney General in your state. Odometer and title fraud are subject to both state and federal laws and can carry serious fines. At this point you may need to contact an attorney that specializes in automobile fraud.

Got a car question, email the Car Doctor for a personal reply. jpaul@aaanortheast.com

Questions and answers from the ‘Car Doctor’

Q. I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. My car goes through a lot of oil. I am basically adding 5-10 quarts of high mileage oil between filter changes. I have read articles and watched videos about this issue. Besides changing the PCV a few times I have not done anything else. What is your opinion of these cars. I was told by the dealership that these engines have a lifetime warranty as long as the engine is clean inside.

A. There is a technical service bulletin that has to do with connecting rod failure on many models. The oil consumption issue is also common, but that warranty is likely expired. The first step needs to start with an oil consumption test performed by the dealer and documented. Then at that point, an engine flush needs to be performed to clean up the piston rings. Then is this doesn’t help, then the engine may get replaced. The technical service bulletin provides warranty coverage for engine long block repair or replacement regarding engine damage or malfunction from connecting rod bearing wear has been extended to 10 years or 120,000miles from the date of original retail delivery or date of first use, whichever occurs first. Warranty coverage is valid for original and subsequent owners. The dealer may be able to work with the Hyundai corporate office to help with out of warranty repairs.

Q. The horn in my old Buick often does not work. The blower fan also is not working, when the horn does not work, the heater does not work on any setting (defrost or vents) and the radio/heater/clock display goes out. Are these related issues? I do plan to get it to my mechanic but was hoping for some input from you prior.

A. The horn is likely a separate issue, but the blower fan and heater readout may be related. The clock could also be related to the horn. The horn and clock have power when the car is off. The fan and heater display do not have power when the key is off. At this point, the issues need to be looked at as small groups, using a wiring diagram and carful observation of what is going on under the dash. Sorry there is not an easy fix on this, just time and diagnostic troubleshooting.

Q. Is there one leather cleaner for seats that you prefer over others?

A. I have generally had good luck with Meguiar’s products (no they do not pay me) and the Ultimate Leather Detailer is a good product. Also, Griots also makes good products that I will use from time to time.

Q. I have a 2004 Acura TSX, original owner, I was one of the first people to purchase the car at my dealer in April 2003. I love the car; it has 173,000 miles and runs great as I maintain it and service it regularly. I only bring it to the Acura dealer for service and have done so since purchase. I have always put premium gasoline 93 octane in the car and still do today. I believe this was the recommendation. My question is, should I still use premium grade gasoline in the car or is it okay to use a lower grade such as 89 or 87?

A. In that year Acura, 91 octane is what is required. Unlike many vehicles that have a higher-octane recommendation (not a requirement) you can sacrifice a little performance for economy. Since Acura does not give you that option, I would stick to higher octane fuel.

Q. I have a 2020 Toyota RAV4 hybrid. I am totally confusion on coolant change intervals, it seems all over the map. The plate on inside of hood says to change inverter coolant for first time at 150,000 miles. To me that seems excessive. Also, I was given a price from the dealer for approximately $530 for flush and fill for radiator and inverter coolant, which also seems excessive. Can you clear this up?

A. According to the service table that I use (which is directly from Toyota) the engine coolant providing it is in good condition (not low, dirty and still protecting the engine to -34) is good for 100,000 miles and the invertor coolant is good for 150,000 miles. As for time I would convert this to each 10,000 miles equals one year. Initial replacement for engine coolant is at 100,000 miles/120 months and to perform the service again every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter. The Hybrid Drive coolant Initial replacement is at 150,000 miles/180 months. Then preform the service again every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter. Could you do it sooner, sure, is it necessary not according to the people who made the car.

Q. As the wintry weather is coming and there are already threats of heavy snow on the weather forecasts, I see putting their car’s wipers up in the air. What are your thoughts on this?

A. Many drivers will stand the wiper arms up to prevent the blades from sticking to the windshield. I have a couple of problems with this, the wiper could get ice on it and in a strong wind, smack the windshield and may crack the window. The other issue is you are overextending the spring that keeps the wiper properly tensioned on the windshield. Also, I have read hundreds of vehicle owner’s manual, and I never seem a mention of putting the wiper arms in the “service-position” during inclement weather.

Got a car question, email the Car Doctor for a personal reply. jpaul@aaanortheast.com

Questions and answers from the ‘Car Doctor’

Q. My car a Genesis does not start, and I get a message that the key is not dedicated. I have been using our other car and public transportation. I left the car unlocked, but if it were locked how would I get in if the key is not detected? We only have one key, what is wrong?

A. This a classic example of the key fob battery is dead. Nearly all key fobs have a removeable physical key made into the fob. Although you may not see a door lock, near the door handle there is usually a removable cover. The key will get you into the car. On this vehicle and any others, if you push the start button with the key fob the engine will start. The key fob battery is inexpensive and easy to replace and depending on the vehicle changing the battery every couple of years is money well spent.

Q. I am interested especially in plug-in hybrids (like the now-discontinued Chevy Volt), and would use it almost exclusively as an electric, with trips of less than 100 miles and charging every night. Any gasoline in the tank would go bad before it was used. How do you manage the gasoline in the tank? And does the oil need changing every 3000 miles, even though most of those miles are electric?

A. There are different configurations of hybrids, Plugin hybrids that use a series drivetrain only receive mechanical power from the electric motor, which is run by either a battery or a gasoline-powered generator. In hybrids with parallel drivetrains, the electric motor and internal combustion engine can provide mechanical power simultaneously. Series/parallel drivetrains enable the engine and electric motor to provide power independently or in conjunction with one another. In all these applications there is some internal combustion use. Some plug-in hybrids run the engine to use up gas, so it will not get stale. This function is built into the programming of the car. Using the very capable Hyundai Sante-FE PHEV as an example, Hyundai still wants the oil changed at 8000 miles and is recommending a fuel additive at 8000 miles-presumably to keep the combustion chamber clean.

Q. You had a question about how to get bumper stickers off a van and I have a suggestion. The best product out there is Un-Du. Have used it for years. I got a bunch of bumper stickers off my daughter’s car with it. It is designed to keep the adhesive on the sticker, so leaves little residue behind. This is a great product, loved by crafters and has a slew of household uses.

A. Thanks for the suggestion and this is one product I never heard of. Always appreciative of reader suggestions, comments and even some criticism.

Q. I was watching YouTube and many car videos I watched had an ad for a plug-in device called ECO. In the ad it said it worked so well it was like stealing gas. In fact, they said they were getting sued by oil companies and car companies because it worked so well. What do you think?

A. I do not know this product, but my first thought is do not waste your money. The idea that car companies do not want to deliver better fuel economy is just silly. Car companies literally will look to save grams of weight to improve fuel economy. If I believed everything, I saw online I would be rich and good looking.

Q. I have a 2016 Subaru Outback 3.6R with 53,000 miles. The spark plugs have never been changed; I see no symptoms that would suggest a problem. The maintenance schedule calls for spark plugs at 60,000 miles (or 5 years I believe). The mileage is lower than 60,000 but time is past 60 months. Do you suggest using time instead of miles in my case for the 60,000-mile service (includes brake fluid change too)?

A. It would be a good idea to replace the sparkplugs. Leaving them for too long can sometimes cause the sparkplugs to become seized in the cylinder-heads. This can lead to a whole host of additional problems. Subaru also states 60 months or 60,000 miles whichever comes first. Changing brake fluid every three or so years is also a good idea.

Q. I have a 2018 Mercedes Benz C300 4matic; currently 21,500 miles and I am the original owner. Should I get oil change and have fluids checked before winter sets in? The last service was done in October 2020 at 12,300 miles.

A. According to Mercedes (not a dealer recommendation) you should have the oil changed every 10,000 or once per year whichever comes first. At the same time, the technician will check the other fluids and filters. I agree with this once per year recommendation, it is just an effective way to keep up with potential issues that can crop up as the car ages.

Q. I own a 2013 Honda CRV with 65,000 miles on it. The car has always been maintained by Honda. The Honda dealership keeps recommending that I change the radiator hoses and the fluid due to it being 10 years old. What would be your recommendation for when to replace the radiator fluid and hoses?

A. Changing the coolant in this model definitely makes sense at 10 years old. The radiator hoses typically have a very long life but at 10 years old, it is worth considering. As an example, If I were driving cross country in this car, I would want to replace the radiator and heater hoses. If the car were used locally, I would have the coolant changed and have the hoses evaluated by the mechanic who was performing the service.

Got a car question, email the Car Doctor for a personal reply. jpaul@aaanortheast.com